Wolfgang Zweiner spent four decades at New York’s famed Peter Luger, long hailed as the paragon of Big Apple beef, where he served first as waiter and then as head waiter. In 2004, he opened his own chain of steakhouses in Manhattan and has since made the West-Coast leap. Its owner’s history accounts for Wolfgang’s throwback character: sleek banquets and house beats are nowhere to be found. Instead, think old-world-style wooden chairs and live piano. Diners are recommended the porterhouse for two, a hefty cut of meat that is dry-aged in-house for 28 days.